It all starts with a 12 foot culm of bamboo (Continued)

Bamboo Rod Build, Part XVII, Guide Wrapping

I was never really interested in "assembling" graphite fly rods because guide wrapping is the main job, and I didn't much care for that particular task. While it still is not my favorite part of bamboo rod building, I've grown to dislike it less.

My first cane rod took me twelve hours to wrap all three sections...and it still looked like crap! Fortunately, I've learn a few tricks along the way. The problem with my first cane rod wrapping experience is that the varnish was applied one day and then I was told to wrap the guides the next. I found out later that the varnished blank must be given sufficient time to cure, which can take a week or more, otherwise the thread will cut into the tacky varnish and it will be impossible to burnish (pack tightly) the wraps. It was a very frustating experience.

I described my problem to master rod maker Scott Chase at Superboo a few years ago and he suggested wrapping the guides on raw bamboo, varnishing the guide wraps with several coats, and then dipping the whole rod in varnish. I have had far less varnish heartaches since I heeded Scott's sage advice. Thanks, Scott.

The main difference between wrapping a graphite rod and a bamboo rod is that graphite rodmakers seem to be shooting for a bulbous, almost football-like shaped wrap, using size A nylon thread and 1 coat epoxy finishes. While that look is okay for graphite, it looks terrible on a bamboo rod. Most cane rod makers prefer a more subtle, flat look that is best achieved with 4/0, or better yet, 6/0 silk thread. Darker colors are problematic for beginners because they hide no evil. Any area not tightly burnished will show unsightly gaps and cause agony for the builder.

The other key to wrapping 6/0 silk thread is magnification, especially for us ol' duffers. I now use my Orvis 5x cheaters for the process.

I typically start the wrapping process with the hook tendor. My preference is a "saddle & ring" style, as opposed to the conventional U-shape style. While saddle & Ring are a bit more challenging to wrap, I really think they add a classic look to a rod.

The first task is to file the "feet" of the guides to provide a smooth silk thread tranisition from the cane up on to the metal. I start the thread with a few turns over itself and then use masking tape to secure the hook tendor in place:


When I reach the saddle, I lift the front foot up so I can wrap under it. The ring is now put in place and held back with a piece of thread:


Each turn is packed snugly back against the last using a burnishing tool. For this purpose, I prefer an over-sized needle glue into a hollowed section of bamboo to create a bodkin.

I prefer the Garrison-style guide spacing, which puts a guide tightly against the female ferrule, thus creating a fulcrum point:


Wrapping up onto the female ferrule is a bit challenging for a beginner as well, but as long as proper feathering of the metal tabs was done beforehand, it's actually is quite simple:


The wraps are secured by a whip finish. Before you complete the last 5 or 6 turns, a loop of thread is place under a wrap. The wrap is continued for the final turns and then cut. The tab end is put through the loop and then pulled snugly under the previous five or six wraps:


While some enjoy the look of jewel-like agate stripping guides, I prefer an understated nickel silver guide with a carbide ring. Again, it's very important to taper the feet of the guides to provide smooth transition from the bamboo up on to the metal foot:




All my snake guides are wrapped to exactly 1/4". A light pencil mark on the cane can be used for the right length:


Garrison despised tipping his wraps as he saw it as a totally unnecessary and comestic exercise. According to Carmichael's book, Garrison would only tip-wrap rods for two close friends, and he bitched and complained through the whole process. It can be infuriating, but, personally speaking, I think it adds a nice touch to a rod. The key I've found is to wet the thread first, wrap exactly fives snug turns over a whipping loop, and not worrying about burnishing the wraps until the end of the process:


Once all tab ends are pulled tightly, I can use my needle to burnish the five wraps snugly against the original wraps. The wetted thread will dry very tight.


Now it just a repetious process until all guides are wrapped:


Because most tiptops will have to be replaced eventually due to wear, they are typically secured with a glue that is easily melted with heat. Hot glue guns work perfect for this application. (Thanks for the tip Hunter & Bearbutt):


Once completed, the wraps are passed through a alcohol lamp flame for a few seconds to remove any frayed ends. Alcohol burns much cleaner than a match or candle, so there is no soot to soil the wraps:


The wraps are now ready for varnish:


Thinned varnish is now applied to the wraps. While some prefer a brush for this process, I like using the same oversized needle:


Any varnish overrun can be absorbed with a clean section of thread:


Once all wraps have a single coat of varnish, they allowed to dry for 1 hour, rotating 180 degrees every 10-15 minutes. Then a second coat of varnish is added:


The wraps are allowed to dry for 24 hours, then a third coat is added. This process is continued for a fourth and sometimes fifth coat, until the wraps are almost glass-like.