It all starts with a 12 foot culm of bamboo (Continued)

Bamboo Rod Build, Part XIV, Ferrules

Here we are in segment XIV of the series and there’s still have plenty of work to be done before this rod is ready for the first cast. Are you starting to get a feel for the time and commitment involved in building a bamboo rod?

The next step is to cut the sections at the ferrule stations and install the ferrules. Because our hold screws kept the strips exactly where we want them, finding the station is easy. Remember, because this rod is hollow fluted, it is critical that 2” of solid bamboo remain at the ferrule stations. Because my tapered strips typically end at station 13 on my anvil, I had marked the each strip on the enamel side at this point after the final tapering was completed. This makes the ferrule station self-evident:


To supply support and to prevent splintering, I wrap the area of my cut with masking tape. “Then, using a 24 tooth hacksaw blade, I cut almost through the bamboo. I then invert my section in the vise and cut through from the other side to prevent splintering:


A few passes in one direction off the tip of the section rounds the edges and further prevents splintering.

Ferrules are then fit by measuring their depth with a toothpick and marking that length on the blank ferrule station. Then I make a second mark at the ferrule “shoulder”, the line just above the ferrule tabs:


Using 400 grit sandpaper, I round the edges of the bamboo just above the shoulder line. As I proceed, I check the ferrule fit often:


Once the ferrule slides onto the bamboo up to about the shoulder line, I begin to slope the shoulder of the bamboo with my sandpaper. This process is followed very deliberately until the end of the bamboo meets home solidly with the water plug inside the ferrule. The trick is to achieve a snug, but not too tight fit. If the ferrule is too tight, too much epoxy will be squeezed out during fitting. If the fit is too loose, the ferrules will not be secured properly.

Now I prepare the ferrule for installation by first feathering the tabs with 800 grit sandpaper. This will provide a smooth transition for the silk thread from the bamboo to the ferrule:


I then score the inside of the ferrule with a wire brush and needle point to make sure the epoxy holds well:


After the prep work is done on the ferrule, I clean the ferrule's interior well with acetone. This will ensure proper epoxy adhession:


Using high grade 2-part epoxy, I apply the glue to the bamboo and the interior of ferrule. I push the ferrule against a solid surface until an audible "Pop" is heard, indicating any entrapped air has been forced out.

I then aligned the tab serrations with the edges of the bamboo. Then I wrap binding tightly around the ferrule to secure the fit as the epoxy cures (24 hours):